Alright. Just keep me posted then

Thanks,
Francisco

@ben_van Ok cool, thanks 🙂

Hi Ben,

That’s great to hear, and always wonderful to have collaborative opportunities with the uni. My email is rachel.choi@health.nsw.gov.au

Cheers,
Rachel

Following to the latest advice from the University and the Government, there will be reduced on-campus laboratory support. Should you need any technical support or access to laboratory facilities, please contact: amme.lab@sydney.edu.au

Hey Ben, I’ve found a lower-cost solution that achieves the same floor covering effect at a lower cost and with greater flexibility for storage: yoga mats! I also got word that my EVA floor mats couldn’t be delivered, so I’ll hold off from the laser cutter experimentation for now. Thanks!

We recently used this machine to cut shapes out of XPS foam, AKA ‘blue board’. The working piece was approx 1000mm on the wire axis.

These settings seemed to work the best for smoothness of cut:

Parameter Value Material XPS Foam Material Size 1000mm on wire axis Feed Rate 350mm / min (F350 in G code) Wire Power 55V / 3A Wire Diameter 0.4mm Kerf Size 1.0mm

Adjusting drawings for kerf is critical to getting the correct piece size. There did not seem to be a kerf feature in the hotwire controller or vector linker software so we added this manually to a solidworks drawing using the ‘offset entities’ sketch tool.

@ben_van Hey Ben! That sounds great, super keen for that! You’re right, we’d be using a fair amount of foam for the molds and potentially MDF as well.

Looking forward to the induction details - I’ll continue checking the forum in case of updates!

Thanks Ben!

Hello Ben
Thanks for the quick response. I’ll consider my options and report back if I attempt.
Thanks
Johnny Chen

@jzhu3707
I recovered the settings from the gcode file on the server.
In prusaslicer go to

File -> import -> import config..

And select this file

wing_settings.gcode

@ben_van Hi, thank you, works perfectly

Cardboard shouldn’t be an issue at all. Were you looking to cut 4mm thick sheets also? I would probably start with something like 20p, 50s, 20f with air assist. When testing vector cut parameters, place some scrap material underneath. The right settings should only lightly mark the material underneath.
Let us know how you go and we can add the settings you find to the materials list.

Looking good. Here’s that digital potentiometer video I was talking about.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uezoQ5fkixY

Theres some people in the comments saying you could digitise the buck converter without any desoldering or fancy extra chip. May be worth looking into?

You don’t have to remove the original potentiometer of these buck converters. You just need to “inject” some extra voltage to the shorted pins (pin 2 and 3) of the onboard potentiometer through a resistor and by this you can trick the buck controller chip and control it perfectly. I did this already quite some time ago using a MCP4725 12-bit DAC and an SZBK07 buck converter. This DAC has higher resolution than those digital potmeters, so you can control the voltage on a really fine scale.

@james-young2952

Hi James,

Thanks for using the forum, and apologies we have not been as active here as we’d like to be at the moment. It’s been a rough semester so far getting things organised, and yes, we were affected by the flooding among other things but are finally able to open back up to everyone. We will be bringing more equipment online than we’ve ever had before and are excited to see you make good use of it!

Feel free to let us know if you have any more questions.

Ben

Hi James,

What are you constructing and what’s the size of the brackets you need? Do you have any rough designs or drawings to share?

@hraj4649
Hi Vihash,

Thanks for joining the forum and posting.
Requests for additional FabLab resources are best handled through private messages here or by email, as they are considered on a case-by-case basis. I will send you a PM shortly.

In general, as we balance resources to many ongoing projects in the lab, we aim to understand as much about the project as possible before allocating more credits. This is to ensure we can reasonably provide or suggest modifications/alternatives, especially in critical cases such as for a Thesis.

We have equipment that may be able to produce something that could work. However, achieving a sharp edge at the top of the triangular prism and a length of 30cm will be difficult.
So before getting into potential manufacturing methods; How important is achieving this exact geometry to the application? And if it is, do you have a method of measuring the geometry of any produced part?

@zzha1258

Hi Victor,
Thanks for joining the forum.
We use E3D-V6 compatible nozzles on the Nupbox printers. Here is a great article that goes into more detail about some different options:
https://www.lpomykal.cz/v6-v5-brass-nozzles/

If purchasing a nozzle for use with carbon or metal fill filaments, it must be abrasion resistant. Tungsten carbide nozzles are a great option and are available from PhaserFPV https://www.phaserfpv.com.au/collections/3d-printer-nozzles/products/phaetus-tungsten-carbide-175mm-nozzle-ps-m6-v6-nozzle

Our standard nozzle diameter is 0.4mm. If you’d like to experiment with other options, that will be fine however we will need to change the machine back to its standard configuration after each job.

@pphi4608

Hi!
Are you looking to hide the layer lines on the prints or just paint a specific colour?

@RdzorDr95
Hi David,

Thanks for joining the forum.
The NUPBOX is capable of printing Polypropylene. However, a print platform coated with Polypropylene tape or MagigooPP will be required. I recommend using MagigooPP for more reliable results.
Once you have the filament and suitable platform adhesive, please book a consultation with me to configure a new profile so we can add PP to the list of filament presets for the NUPBOX.